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Climbing the Northwest Chute of Starlight - is a series of chutes, chimneys, short pitches, and exposed traverses.
Above you see Sean completing one of the exposed traverses on the route. The West Chute approach to Starlight Peak was
first climbed by James Wright on July 14, 1933.
Once in Palisade basin, take the third most prominent chute south of Thunderbolt Pass. The northwest chute is basically class
4, but if you get off route you could easily find yourself on class 5 rock. The final chimney that leads to the summit is a bit
strenuous and the final summit block looks intimidating, but take heart, many have gone before you.
Above you see Sean completing one of the exposed traverses on the route. The West Chute approach to Starlight Peak was
first climbed by James Wright on July 14, 1933.
Once in Palisade basin, take the third most prominent chute south of Thunderbolt Pass. The northwest chute is basically class
4, but if you get off route you could easily find yourself on class 5 rock. The final chimney that leads to the summit is a bit
strenuous and the final summit block looks intimidating, but take heart, many have gone before you.
Starlight Peak - The Climb
Northwest side of Starlight and Thunderbolt Peak. As you can see, it
is a maze of chutes and ridges, and route finding can present a
problem.
is a maze of chutes and ridges, and route finding can present a
problem.
Above you can see large chock stones in the chute about center of
photo. We went over the chock stones on our first attempt, and ended
up off route. This time we made the correct turn, and went to the right
at about the bottom portion of the picture.
photo. We went over the chock stones on our first attempt, and ended
up off route. This time we made the correct turn, and went to the right
at about the bottom portion of the picture.
Dramatic view of the Palisade Basin from high up on the
Starlight Peak northwest chute.
Starlight Peak northwest chute.
Sean (left) and Mike high on one of the exposed ledges of the
northwest chute. Most of our climbing was on sound rock, but when we
were in less steep areas loose rock was everywhere. Always have and
wear a safety helmet when rock climbing. Rock fall is always a serious
threat and all should be done to protect oneself from it's potential and
very real danger.
northwest chute. Most of our climbing was on sound rock, but when we
were in less steep areas loose rock was everywhere. Always have and
wear a safety helmet when rock climbing. Rock fall is always a serious
threat and all should be done to protect oneself from it's potential and
very real danger.
Mike (in the shadows) exiting a steep section of the northwest chute.
There were many other areas on the climb that I would liked to have
photographed, but as with nearly all our climbs, when things get
intense, the camera goes in the bag. Far more important to
concentrate on holding on, or belaying my climbing partners than
getting a photo that may end up compromising someones safety.
There were many other areas on the climb that I would liked to have
photographed, but as with nearly all our climbs, when things get
intense, the camera goes in the bag. Far more important to
concentrate on holding on, or belaying my climbing partners than
getting a photo that may end up compromising someones safety.
We made use of several rappels to safely get
down off some of the steeper pitches on
Starlight Peak. Here you see Sean
descending one of them.
down off some of the steeper pitches on
Starlight Peak. Here you see Sean
descending one of them.